The task of pruning can seem a daunting prospect to some gardeners but there is in fact, no great mystery surrounding pruning and a few basic rules are all you need to get started in most cases. At its simplest level, pruning should be regarded as a way of introducing some order to your garden, giving your plants space to grow and look their best, while also controlling them within a set space.
Why is Pruning Necessary
Pruning is usually carried out to control the growth of stronger subjects that may otherwise damage those of a weaker habit growing alongside; it also ensures plants do not outgrow their allocated space and cause an obstruction.
Pruning is also used to train a plant to a specific shape or form, to maintain or improve flowerings, and to improve the shape or “balance” of an individual shrub or tree. Finally, it is used to remove dead, damaged, diseased or pest-infected growth.
Pruning can be an art. Topiary (shrubs grown to specific shapes, such as globes) are created by pruning an evergreen shrub as it grows to the shape of a simple wire form placed around it.
Good and Bad Pruning
A good pruning cut is made just above a strong bud, about 3mm (1/8 in) above the bud. It should be a slanting cut, with the higher end above the bud. The bud should generally be outward bound from the plant rather than inward.
If the stem has buds or leaves opposite each other, make the cut horizontal, about 3mm (1/8 in) above the buds.
Do not cut too close to the bud, otherwise the bud might be damaged by the secateurs, or disease might enter. Too close a cut is likely to cause the stem to die back to the next bud.
Always use a sharp pair of pruners. Blunt ones will produce a ragged or bruised cut, which is likely to introduce disease into the plant.
Pruning Equipment
Garden Gloves: Save those hands and nails!
There is a range of tools that can be used. It is advisable to use the correct tool for a specific task because it will make the process both easier and more efficient.
Pruning knife: cut away from you and keep hands clear of the direction of the cut.
Hand Pruners: Hand pruners are the commonest type of pruning tool and are best used on twiggy material up to about the width of a pencil.
Loppers: Use these on branches up to 1” thick. Loppers are useful in situations where hand pruners cannot easily reach.
Extension Loppers: Tiring to use, however are good for out-of-reach branches.
Ratchet and snap cut shears: Use on 1½” thick branches. There are also narrow saws, extension saws, and bow saws for larger branches.
AFTER CARE
Any significant pruning will cause at least a small amount of shock to your shrub, tree or whatever you prune. After pruning, you should feed your newly pruned shrub with a well-balanced fertilizer, applying one cut at the base of the shrub. Water well after fertilizing. To prevent shock to your plants caused by sudden or severe changes , mulch around the base of the shrub with a 2 inch layer of pine bark or peat moss.
Why is Pruning Necessary
Pruning is usually carried out to control the growth of stronger subjects that may otherwise damage those of a weaker habit growing alongside; it also ensures plants do not outgrow their allocated space and cause an obstruction.
Pruning is also used to train a plant to a specific shape or form, to maintain or improve flowerings, and to improve the shape or “balance” of an individual shrub or tree. Finally, it is used to remove dead, damaged, diseased or pest-infected growth.
Pruning can be an art. Topiary (shrubs grown to specific shapes, such as globes) are created by pruning an evergreen shrub as it grows to the shape of a simple wire form placed around it.
Good and Bad Pruning
A good pruning cut is made just above a strong bud, about 3mm (1/8 in) above the bud. It should be a slanting cut, with the higher end above the bud. The bud should generally be outward bound from the plant rather than inward.
If the stem has buds or leaves opposite each other, make the cut horizontal, about 3mm (1/8 in) above the buds.
Do not cut too close to the bud, otherwise the bud might be damaged by the secateurs, or disease might enter. Too close a cut is likely to cause the stem to die back to the next bud.
Always use a sharp pair of pruners. Blunt ones will produce a ragged or bruised cut, which is likely to introduce disease into the plant.
Pruning Equipment
Garden Gloves: Save those hands and nails!
There is a range of tools that can be used. It is advisable to use the correct tool for a specific task because it will make the process both easier and more efficient.
Pruning knife: cut away from you and keep hands clear of the direction of the cut.
Hand Pruners: Hand pruners are the commonest type of pruning tool and are best used on twiggy material up to about the width of a pencil.
Loppers: Use these on branches up to 1” thick. Loppers are useful in situations where hand pruners cannot easily reach.
Extension Loppers: Tiring to use, however are good for out-of-reach branches.
Ratchet and snap cut shears: Use on 1½” thick branches. There are also narrow saws, extension saws, and bow saws for larger branches.
AFTER CARE
Any significant pruning will cause at least a small amount of shock to your shrub, tree or whatever you prune. After pruning, you should feed your newly pruned shrub with a well-balanced fertilizer, applying one cut at the base of the shrub. Water well after fertilizing. To prevent shock to your plants caused by sudden or severe changes , mulch around the base of the shrub with a 2 inch layer of pine bark or peat moss.